Jenni Ajderian

Boogie Bear and I thoroughly enjoyed our two days in Vancouver.      The parents of Fiona, my last WWOOFing host, live in North Vancouver and are absolutely wonderful. They've opened their doors to me for my little sejour in Vancouver- not only that, but after picking me up from the Seabus station I was hailed as elegant and offered a glass of wine. Following a six-hour Greyhound bus ride and the customary short hike with the 80-litre backpack, this was more than welcome.      This morning was spent walking through the Capilano Canyon with the dogs, before I jumped back on the Seabus and into the big city of Vancouver. From thousand-year-old trees to skyscrapers, I wandered a little bemusedly through city streets and the glittering Downtown all spruced up for the Olympics. This is all only a short walk from Gastown, the infamous Amsterdam Café, Chinatown and finally the eastern edges and the highway. Staying on a single road there is a tangible difference in the air as you

Well, it seems the wind changed and blew the whole Icelandic ashcloud out of the way!      Winds have been changing here, too- I'm supposed to be in a place called Rossland right now, 283km east of where I actually am.      But rolling with the punches is an important part of travelling. I made two mistakes in this part of the journey- number one was trying to organise so much so far in advance- I first emailed my WWOOFing place in Rossland about three months ago, but due to one thing and another I now felt less and less inclined to go there. Nonetheless, Zan and I jumped in the van (named Morgan Freeman, of course), and started on Highway 3 heading south to Rossland My second mistake came when Zan  handed me the map. When we hit Grand Forks, about 100km west of Rossland, I realised what I'd done, and we came up with another plan. And so here I am in Penticton. After a seven-hour drive in a van that goes at exactly the speed it chooses, and a restless night's sl

The news of the Icelandic Volcano filtered through the other-worldly media of Nelson and reminded us that reality exists outside of the town.      The last week has been incredible. Staying in the centre of Nelson means being a block away from the best coffee and two from one of the most eventful streets you could find in a teeny tiny city. As well as JusDance me and the incredible Zan have been to yoga, open mic nights, a hike up Pulpit Rock (giving a view of all of Nelson- very pretty) and numerous wanders down to the lake for tarot readings and meet-ups with whoever happened to be there.      Out of town we hitch-hiked out to Ainsworth Hot Springs, which was an experience in itself. After a measly half-hour wait we got two lifts which hopped us up there, stopping in Balfour, where a guy from Open Mic recognized us and waved hello from the queue for the ferry, and a guy in a Bakery recognised us as the two girls painting the house across the street.            There has been

Zan and I were kind of uncertain whether to go out, having spent the day shovelling gravel, re-laying a path and climbing a mountain. The usual life of a WWOOFer in British Columbia.      I showed up to JusDance completely over-dressed. I thought it would be something more akin to a silent disco, but then, waiiit, this is Nelson. Whatever you're expecting, it will turn out to be completely different.      And so I stood in my skinny jeans, nice top, even wearing mascara, watching people in tank tops and yoga trousers swaying and dancing to music completely unfamiliar to me.      There are a few important rules to JusDance- No shoes, No speaking, No alcohol. You're encouraged to move around the space a lot and to interact when the 'vibe' is right (very important Nelsonian word there), and, crucially, to dance exactly how you want to, because "ain't no one's lookin".      In focusing completely on your own body and your connection with the music, and

There are numerous advantages to WWOOFing or CouchSurfing instead of just crashing in a hotel.      There's the free food, free roof over your head, the skills you learn- but most importantly, there's your host. Without this person letting you take up some of their personal space for a while, you'd never get so much of an insight into someone else's life, and never get to muscle in on certain experiences orchestrated by a friend-of-a-friend.      I sure as hell never would have been to a Sweat Lodge if I was just in the Best Western down the street.      The people at Buie's place were up on the hill at 9am building the fire and preparing the grandfathers- the heated rocks -for the lodge, so that by the time we got there a couple of hours later, the two fire demons were well practised in levering another log onto the great tipi of heat. Behind it our Elder stood whittling what looked like a longbow. What followed was an introduction to the group, which was o

Banff National Park, Alberta "In Canada, I will make a video that will make me cry. In unbearable frost and thin air I shall hold my shivvering dried-up heart in my hand..."      If the Walter Philips Gallery had more than one exhibition going, I didn't see the rest. I was pretty contented with Ragnar Kjartansson's The End- a video installment in 5 parts projected simultaneously onto the walls of a pitch-black, blacked-out room. The words Video Installment usually make me cringe too, to be honest I was expecting something more akin to the Miss Chief video in Calgary.      But in February of last year Kjartansson and musician David Por Jonsson went out to the Rockies, donned Davie Crocket caps and played guitars, banjos, drums, bass, piano and electric guitar in temperatures as low as -20 degrees C. The result is 'a five-channel video installation synched together as a single disfigured country music arrangement in the chord of G', and absolutely sublime.

Yesterday I ran around the city a bit, trying to see as much as possible for as little as possible...      It was hard.      The walk from Sean's place in Renfrew was long but scenic. Cold and crisp, Calgary did turn out to be mostly suburb, with a pretty concentrated centre with all your usual tourist hangouts just south of the Bow river where a lot of money can be spent very easily. Like $14 for going up Calgary Tower, $9 for a student ticket to the Glenbow Museum, and all those malls! They're all interconnected, so you could probably walk from shop to shop most of the way across the city without having to see sunlight. This is probably the idea behind the Plus Fifteen, too- a heated walkway above the streets so the Calgarians don't have to freeze in winter.      The Glenbow offered your normal mix of traditional art, weird modern stuff, rooms full of the extensive and glorious history of Alberta, all 150 years of it, and then some disco music and a sequin-clad Native